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Happy Hooker                 $ 89.95        

A Tool for Escaping Potholes

One of many tools the wise canyoneer will carry at all times. It is useful, but quite limited in what it can do. In order to be useful, you must have something to hook within reach. This is not always possible.

The Happy Hooker consists of an 11 foot (3.4 m) rigid aluminum pole with a large steel hook at the top. A fancy-schmantzy machined head connects the pole to the hook. A wire loop swaged to the hook makes a convenient place to clip a carabiner.

The pole is a large-diameter tent pole, substantially more rigid than standard tent poles, but still pretty flexy at 11 feet. An extension clips into the bottom, adding six feet (1.8 m) for when things go really wrong. The Hooker comes in a mesh bag with Cordura reinforcements. The bag and Hooker weigh 500 grams (1 lb, 2 oz) and the Extension adds another 140 grams (5 ozs).

Using the Hooker:
1. Extend the Pole. Snap the segments together until the 11-foot pole is fully extended. (If the full length is not required and gets in the way, try extending it all the way first, then choose a place to fold it, and use it with one fold in it).

2. Attach slings or etriers to the wire clip-in point. The pole itself cannot be climbed, it is necessary to clip slings or etriers to the clip in point before hooking. Practice before hand - it helps to hang a double set of over-the-shoulder slings girth-hitched together. Be sure to have enough slings handy to be able to use the Hooker. It may take up to 10 slings to set up the Hooker, even more if using the extension.

3. Hook something securely. This is often the crux. Sometimes natural edges are available, often not. Sometimes slings or bolts left by previous parties can be hooked. Sometimes trees or logs. It is often easier to see something to hook from above, so let your partner (still at the top of the last rappel) guide you.

4. Climb the slings until able to exit the obstacle. Climb carefully, minimizing jerky motions. WEAR a HELMET, and HAVE YOUR PARTNER SPOT YOU. The hook can skate off, or break the rock at the placement at any time - be ready for it.

5. Carefully leave the slings and move your body weight to natural features. Before leaving the dubious security of the Hooker, be sure of your holds and security. Moving your weight back onto the Hooker is asking for trouble.

6. Retrieve the Hooker and assist your partner in exiting. If the Hooker is on a secure placement, the easiest exit for your partner may be to climb the slings. If the placement is of lower quality, remove the hooker, and assist your partner out of the pothole by other means.

Other Ways of Having
A Good Time with the Hooker:
A. For short rappels: Sometimes a good hook placement can be found close to the edge of a short drop. In these cases, rappel off the hook, then clean by moving the pole up from below. In cases where the pole end is not within reach, try duct-taping a stick to the lowest pole segment.

B. Otherwise using the Hook: the hook is fairly easily removed. Because of the nylock nuts, you will need a wrench to remove the hook. Be sure to put the nuts back on the bolts right away so you don't loose them.

C. Extension Stick: The 11-foot pole is useful by itself. When swimming in pools, the end can be braced against the bottom or the opposite wall, to give stability to a swimming canyoneer assisting their partner. It can be used to probe pools to figure out how deep they are, and understand the shape of their bottom. It can sometimes be used during downclimbs to provide a little additional stability and control.

WARNING: The pole itself is not very strong. Do not attempt to use the pole as a ladder, except in very limited circumstances. When doing so, shorten the pole as short as possible. Attach etriers or slings to the hook. Position vertically against a wall, and plant the bottom on a non-skid surface. Send the lightest person up first. Have your partner stabilize the pole as you climb. (In most circumstances, this method provides NO advantage over a shoulder stand).

Before Each Use:
1. Check that the Nylock nuts are securely tightened, and that they hold the Ibis Hook firmly. While the bolts are tightly screwed to the head, they can spin, in which case it will require two wrenches to tighten the nuts and make the Hooker secure.
2. Check that the small diameter clip-in cable is not frayed.

After Each Use:
1. If used in wet conditions, wash thoroughly with clean water, and let dry. Try to do so in the folded configuration. Sand and corrosion will mess with the precise fit of the pole segments - you don't want that.

Maintenance: Other than keeping it clean, little maintenance is required. Make sure the cable does not get frayed - the overall strength of the cable is not all that high, and any fraying should result in immediate repair. After clipping off the cable, climbing webbing can be slung through the lower hole and tied into a loop.

Tightening the Shockcord: the shockcord may become loose. This can happen in water, as the shockcord stretches when wet. To tighten the shockcord, unscrew the nuts, then the bolts. Pull the head out of the top, untie the shock cord, pull through an additional 6" and retie the cord. Tuck the tail and knot into the top of the pole segment, and slowly push in the head. Carefully insert the bolts and screw down tight. Re-attach hook.

Warranty: the Happy Hooker is warranted to be free of defects in materials and workmanship, but that's really about it. Utility in the canyons will vary widely with experience, practice and some old fashioned thinking.

Canyoneering is Dangerous. All sorts of bad things can happen that the Hooker will just not do a thing for. Flash floods, falling rocks, cut ropes, hypothermia, heat exhaustion, ropes getting stuck, slips and falls - lets face it, the only thing that keeps us safe is being constantly on our toes, paying keen attention, and staying aware of the dangers that confront us at every turn. Be Safe.

Imlay Happy Hooker             $ 89.95